Rajgad - featured image

Cycling near Pune: A day trip to ISKCON, Rajgad and Baneshwar Temple, Nasrapur

1. Introduction

For most people monsoons are best enjoyed indoors with a hot cup of ‘chai’ and ‘pakoda’. I on the contrary like going out in the rainy season into nature’s lap to soak up the rains. Pune weather provides me ample opportunities to do various outdoor activities during all seasons. Especially in monsoon, the atmosphere is fresh and green and I prefer exploring nearby places on a bicycle.
Within cycling distance are the Sahyadri hills where one can find numerous ghats, forts, lakes, waterfalls and temples to explore.

I was contemplating a visit to ISKCON, Rajgad for quite some time. Finally, in July 2022, I could execute my pending plan for a solo cycling trip to the place. I decided to club Baneshwar, it being situated just 18 km from Rajgad on the return route. Rajgad would be my first target at a distance of about 52 km from my home.

wada pav-Rajgad and Baneshwar travelogue
Fueling up for the ride. Vada Pav at S. Kumar Wadewale, Hadapsar.

2. Pune to Rajgad via Katraj

I started from my place at Mundhwa precisely at 8:00 AM on my MTB cycle. I was carrying a backpack with a raincoat, cycle lights, tools, power bank, chargers, water and miscellaneous items in it. If you are thinking that it was heavy luggage, you are absolutely right. At 8:30 AM and the 6 km mark, I took my first break for the day and had a vada pav at the famous S. K. Kumar Wadewale joint beside Noble Hospital. I resumed the trip at 9:00 AM.

The breakfast provided me energy to keep moving. I had covered such a minuscule distance. Still had 46 km more to cover to Rajgad. I calculated the estimated arrival time to be 1 p.m. based on traffic and terrain en route. Also, I kept some buffer time for a relaxed pace and the fact that I was not in regular cycling practice. I reached Katraj at around 10:20 AM. I had managed to cover just 12 more km since breakfast. Heavy traffic on Pune-Solapur Road and the hilly terrains within the city cost me a lot of precious time. With each passing minute, the traffic on the roads was getting heavier and it was becoming difficult to maintain good speed. Only a fellow cyclist could relate to the pain of having to apply brakes after having gained cruising speed. I stopped for a photo break at Katraj. No, let me confess, it was honestly to give rest to my legs! From there I could get a glimpse of the hills that I had to cross.

2_Photo break at Katraj.- Rajgad and Baneshwar travelogue
Photo break at Katraj. Just crossed the 18 kms mark at 10:20 AM. Glimpse of hills in the background that I would have to cross.

As I was approaching the Pune-Bangalore highway from east of Pune, I took the old Katraj tunnel route. The ghat started within few kilometers and I had to engage the lowest gear combination 1-1 on my bicycle to just stay put. The climb was steep and 4.7 km long and the constant traffic did not help much either. With utter disregard towards a cyclist, all kinds of vehicles brushed past honking and billowing dark fumes from their exhausts. I keep climbing at a snail’s pace, sipping water frequently and talking to myself occasionally. At last, after a treacherous and continuous climb, the tunnel came into view and I decided to stop for another photo break aka leg rest.

4_Clicked from the rest stop, the old Katraj tunnel- Rajgad and Baneshwar travelogue
Clicked from the rest stop, the old Katraj tunnel can be seen at the center of the image, nestled between the hills.
3_View of approaching tunnel marked end to the continuous climb of 4.7 kms- Rajgad and Baneshwar travelogue
View of approaching tunnel marked end to the continuous climb of 4.7 kms. I would soon get over the ‘major hurdle”. Photo at the rest stop.

From a distance, I could see the entrance to the tunnel and breathed a sigh of relief. I just had to cover a small distance and the first challenge for the day would be completed. I felt very positive about the trip as the major fear to cross the ghat was conquered. The steep climb had taken a toll and I wanted to rest. I saw a small makeshift shop at the entrance of the tunnel from my vantage point where few vehicles had gathered. It appeared to be a tea and snacks stall from that distance.

I resumed my climb and the dark clouds that had gathered over the hilltop soon started pouring. I rushed to the shop and took shelter from the sudden onslaught. The shop was a small makeshift one primarily selling roasted corn ‘bhutta’ at Rs. 40 per piece and a few other snack items. The view from the top was awesome. I looked back and traced the route that I had climbed from down below.

5_Looking back at the city with the tunnel behind me. Notice how dark those rain clouds were.- Rajgad and Baneshwar travelogue
: Looking back at the city with the tunnel behind me. Notice how dark those rain clouds were.
6_The road leading up to the tunnel can be seen here. What a climb it was!- Rajgad and Baneshwar travelogue
The road leading up to the tunnel can be seen here. What a climb it was!

I did some photography, observed the traffic passing through the tunnel and waited for the rain to subside. Though I was carrying a raincoat, to be honest, it is not the most convenient arrangement to put it on and off every few kilometres in light rain. Furthermore, it gets extremely hot and uncomfortable to cycle in a rain suit. So, I decided to leave it to nature to allow me to pass and waited.

7_Old Katraj tunnel. F- Rajgad and Baneshwar travelogue
Old Katraj tunnel. Finally, I had reached the top! My trusted companion is a Huge MTB 29er visible here leaning on the coconut tree for some support.

After the rain subsided. I equipped my cycle with front and back lights as the tunnel was really dark. The tunnel was also very narrow with only two lanes. I crossed the tunnel safely and came out of the other side overjoyed. What a ride it had been so far!

It was now time to reap the fruits of hard labour. As expected, I was gifted with a downward incline though it did not last very long. Soon I joined NH48 towards Bangalore and it was free cruising till I had to take a right turn at Khed Shivapur.

8_The mean machine handsomely posing- Rajgad and Baneshwar travelogue
The mean machine handsomely posing during a photoshoot at the junction where the road coming down from old Katraj tunnel meets NH 48.
9_Cruising on the NH 48.- Rajgad and Baneshwar travelogue
Cruising on the NH 48. It is a beautiful stretch of downhill highway. The weather was clear for some time and sun shone brilliantly.

I bid adieu to NH48 and entered the village through an underpass. As is usual at such intersections, there was a small market with all kinds of shops. I purchased two packets of ORS and a bottle of water from a medical shop. I wanted to avoid cramps and stay hydrated. My overall progress was slow even though I was riding almost non-stop. I had 23 km more to cover and estimated that I could reach ISKCON before the temple closed for the afternoon and reopened at 4 PM. But I was in for a huge setback. The road that appeared to be a shortcut was in pathetic condition and full of potholes.

10_bad stretch of the road- Rajgad and Baneshwar travelogue
Bad stretch of the road leading up to the ghat. It started raining as I neared the base of the ghat.

There was also a ghat to navigate. On top of it, it started raining sporadically. I became very tired as I reached the bottom of the ghat and started pushing the cycle to the top. My progress was pathetic as I inched to the top. All my hopes of reaching the temple before it closed were shattered. There was no option but to keep moving and get over the top. Finally, after a long walk climbing some good distance, I reached the top. The view from the top was breathtaking. It was hard to believe that I was in Maharashtra. A beautiful landscape greeted me from the top. Mountains and greenery all around and till far away could be seen. To add to the beauty of it, the rain clouds enhanced the scenic beauty. I was spellbound. All efforts to come till here were worth it I thought.

11_Greeted by amazing views of the- Rajgad and Baneshwar travelogue
Greeted by amazing views of the surrounding landscape from the top of the second ghat.
12_Tired but not defeated- Rajgad and Baneshwar travelogue
Tired but not defeated!

Pushing the bicycle to the top and carrying the heavy backpack had taken a toll on me and I felt tired and hungry. I had not eaten anything other than the Vada pav that morning and I began feeling famished. Images appeared like Mirage in front of my eyes that I was having Prasad at the temple.

To cross just 5 km in that terrain had taken an eternity but now I was over the top and a downhill awaited on the other side. Though roads were non-existent, I enjoyed the downhill and made up for some lost time.

13_ View after crossing the ghat. Had to take the winding road- Rajgad and Baneshwar travelogue
View after crossing the ghat. Had to take the winding road visible below.
14_Before joining SH65 came across- Rajgad and Baneshwar travelogue
Before joining SH65 came across beautiful landscape but not so beautiful roads.
15_Lonely roads winding through lush greenery.- Rajgad and Baneshwar travelogue
Lonely roads winding through lush greenery.

Through bad roads and steep inclines, I continued my adventure and finally joined SH-65. This is the same road that runs from NH48 at Nasrapur and goes to Rajgad fort and Velhe dam. I took a deep breath and heaved a sigh of relief after seeing some tarmac after so long.

By 2 p.m. I had reached the spot on SH65, where I had to take a left for Iskcon.

16_Junction on SH 65 from- Rajgad and Baneshwar travelogue
Junction on SH 65 from where I had to take a left to reach ISKCON.

The destination appeared close and it gave me the inspiration to cover the last 4 km. The village roads were back but this time it was in better shape. I went straight to the village and stopped at a grocery store to inquire about any open restaurants as I was hungry for food. After being told that there isn’t any hotel or restaurant at that place, I purchased a pack of bourbon biscuits and tiger biscuits along with some toffees. As soon as I sat to have some biscuits, a pet dog appeared out of nowhere and persuaded me to share my purchase with him, which I did willingly. I parted with the packet of tiger biscuits. Then two locals came and interacted with me. The kind souls were good people and they even invited me to their home for food which I politely declined. I wanted to first do darshan at the temple and then take any heavy food. The biscuits brought back some energy so that I could cover the final steps to the temple.

17_Narrow bridge over a stream- Rajgad and Baneshwar travelogue
Narrow bridge over a stream on the road to ISKCON.
18_Rest stop at a general store. Had some- Rajgad and Baneshwar travelogue
Rest stop at a general store. Had some biscuits there. ISKCON is just two mins from that place.
19_Pic Famished but in joyful condition. Hare- Rajgad and Baneshwar travelogue
: Famished but in joyful condition. Hare Krishna.

At ISKCON, Rajgad

I reached the temple around 2:40 p.m. and parked my bicycle. A few inquisitive devotees who were leaving the temple approached me for a small conversation. After some Q&A they advised me to take prasad. I went into the temple and offered obeisance to Srila Prabhupada and then went and met the ‘Brahmacharis’. There I introduced myself and one Prabhu was kind enough to provide me with prasad. I had the wholesome prasad by the grace of the Lord and devotees. The prasad provided me with the required physical and spiritual nourishment. Thereafter, I went inside the temple and waited for darshan at 4 PM. It was raining lightly and the temple surroundings looked beautiful. I sat down and waited patiently while observing the beautiful paintings of the Lord. Finally, at 4 PM. I got darshan and spent some time praying. After that, I went around the temple and saw the gohsala. It was very peaceful. The ‘Brahmacharis’ and ‘Swamis’ are very kind and helpful.

20_Sri Krishna at ISKCON Rajgad.- Rajgad and Baneshwar travelogue
Sri Krishna at ISKCON Rajgad. The weather was continuously changing. But mostly it was raining. Managed to capture the photo during the clear period.

Rajgad to Baneshwar

At around 4.45 p.m., I started for my next destination, Baneshwar. I covered the 18 km to Nasrapur through some heavy rain and reached the temple at Baneshwar at 6.15 p.m. It was already late and the crowd had thinned. I quickly parked my bicycle near the entrance and went inside chanting “Har Har Mahadev”.

23_On the way to Nasrapur from ISKCON R- Rajgad and Baneshwar travelogue
On the way to Nasrapur from ISKCON Rajgad on SH 65. There were patches of heavy rain.

It is a very old temple of Lord Shiva, with two ponds in front of the temple. In one of them, there are numerous fishes and the other one has tortoises. The temple has an ancient charm to it and is a very popular attraction in that area.

After offering my obeisance to Mahadev, I did a parikrama and then spent some time in the compound. It was such a peaceful feeling to just sit there and reflect. I could not spend much time due to the urgency of moving on for my return journey, I hope to return there with some more time.

26_Tortoises in the temple tank. Beautiful slow creatures- Rajgad and Baneshwar travelogue

Return to Pune via Katraj

I started from Baneshwar at 6.40 p.m. and cycled through Nasrapur onto NH48. It was now getting dark and I had to cover 45 km to get home.

29_Last pic with remaining daylight at Baneshwar- Rajgad and Baneshwar travelogue
Last pic with remaining daylight at Baneshwar parking. Soon after I reached NH 48, it got dark.

I started pedalling with renewed vigour and was able to maintain a steady pace. There were numerous eateries and dhabas along the way and I decided to energize myself with a plate of matki bhel followed by chai.

30_matki bhel- Rajgad and Baneshwar travelogue
‘Matki Bhel’, a veg super snack.

The cycling lights were proving to be a boon and I was safely cruising on the highway. Soon enough I came across the right turn that would take me to Katraj’s old tunnel. The climb to the tunnel was steep but it was not long before I reached and crossed the same. Thereafter, it was all downhill for more than 4 km.

After Katraj, I encountered heavy city traffic all the way home. I reached home at 10:00 p.m. completely exhausted but satisfied about having completed the trip. With some last clicks, I officially concluded the trip

Some key statistics for the day:

Destinations Covered: ISKCON temple, Rajgad and Baneshwar, Nasrapur.
Distance covered: 120 km
Trip start time: 8:00 a.m.
Trip end time: 10:00 p.m.
Total time: 14 hours

Weather: Cloudy in the morning, light to heavy rainfall during the day.
Mode of transportation: MTB bicycle
Ghats covered: Katraj, Kusagaon
Trip difficulty: Light to moderate

Luggage: Backpack with essentials, raincoat, cycle lights, water etc.
Total expenses: INR 160/- (Vada pav – INR 25/-, Tea- INR 25/- Biscuits and toffee – INR, ORS and water bottle- INR 60/-, Matki bhel- INR 50/-)
Satisfaction Index: 200%

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