The Paradox
Arunachal is a really large state. It is the largest of the seven sister states. The distance between Guwahati and Tawang via Udalguri is approximately 440 km, out of which, the distance in the hills from Balemu to Tawang alone is roughly 300 km. This means that more than 50% of the journey is in the hills. So, it becomes very difficult to cover the entire distance in a single day. It is very much possible to do it in a single day but then what is the point in just rushing (this is not a race!).
Our start to the day was also very late at 8 AM because of extreme tiredness from being on the bike for the past few days. The point is that if you target reaching Guwahati in a single day from Tawang, start early. We wanted to exit via Bhalukpong as we had already been on the route via Balemu but then got to know that there had been a massive landslide there so that plan was ruled out. We had no plan and wanted to ride as far as could towards Guwahati.
Jang Falls
Jang (or Jung or Nuranang) Falls, which is located at a distance of 30 km on the road to Guwahati is a natural wonder and should not be missed. The sheer beauty and grandeur of the falls located amidst the pristine and green surroundings of the Arunachal Pradesh Himalayas are sure to keep visitors captivated.
We had to again endure the nightmarish roads till Jang.
We reached by 9 AM and after paying the entry fees at the turn from the main road, went straight 1 km inwards towards the falls. The parking area is adjacent to a hydel project where we switched to foot and trekked the remaining 300 metres or so distance to the base of the falls.
As we moved along the trail, we could already hear the gushing sounds of water. We have seen a fair bit of waterfalls in our lifetime so we approached with muted expectations. As the trail ended and the meadows opened, what we saw blew our minds. This was no ordinary waterfall, water gushing from some 100 m above on sheer rockface was something to see. The weather was clear when we visited and there was not much of a crowd. The meadows around the falls had few log benches and tables and everything combined made the place look like a page out of a fairy tale book.
After spending around an hour at the place, it was time to get back on the saddle to resume our long journey. Before we move on, note that there are no shops or vendors at Jang Falls so plan accordingly.
Back to Sela
A few km on the road and a small eatery on the outskirts of Jang town beckoned for a quick tea stop and so we obliged. We needed to cover the distance to Sela pass quickly as it is advisable to cross it before noon. Sela Pass was still around 40 km away. Return journeys from beautiful places are always burdensome. At Sela pass, good weather invited us. There we had Maggi and coffee in one of the canteens run by defence personnel. Though the weather was fine, it was very cold at that altitude and the Maggi tasted heavenly.
Rain and Lunch
As soon as we left Sela, a slight drizzle started to accompany us. Though we were fully covered in rain gear, the same could not be said about our luggage. Yes, they were wrapped in rain covers from reputable brands but seeing the water seep inside did not do any good to our confidence.
The way to Rama Camp was uneventful except for the nagging rain. By now the total distance covered from Tawang was 128 km. Dirang was further 6 km from there. The rain had started to get heavy and we were feeling uncomfortable riding in the wet for quite some time. So, we finally decided to halt for lunch at Rama Camp, the time was close to 3 PM.
It was a small roadside restaurant and we ordered Momo and some noodles. It was the worst food we had on this entire tour. Though we do not like to waste food, we had to as it was not edible. It is recommended to stick to Maggi unless you are very sure about the food quality. Having a bad stomach in the hills is not a pleasant experience.
End of Day 5 at Shergaon
By the time we finished lunch, the rain gained momentum, which meant some more loss of time due to waiting. After the rain subsided, the journey back to Guwahati continued. Dirang was crossed in a jiffy by 3.30 PM and the goal of reaching Bomdila in daylight appeared realistic. Another 43 km in the hills and by 5 pm we were at Bomdila, near the football stadium, stuck in a dilemma about whether to halt there or cover the additional distance in the dark and reach Shergaon, where we had seen some stay options on our onward journey.
The latter option seemed advantageous as it would give us a head start of 40 km the following day. Thus, we moved ahead in the dark and reached Shergaon in 2 hours. By 7 pm we had checked into Food Hut. It had tiny but clean rooms and the cost was on the higher side. After a simple dinner of Rice, Roti, Dal and sabzi (mixed vegetables), called it a day.
Start of Day 6
This was going to be the final day of phase 1 of our tour. We started early at around 7 AM and proceeded on the road to Guwahati. After an hour of riding, we stopped for breakfast at a place called Tenzingaon where we had Maggi and tea.
The journey from Tawang to Guwahati seemed to be unending. Sitting on a fully laden bike for days on end is not a simple thing both for the rider and the pillion alike.
In the last part of the journey which commenced from Tawang a day ago, there was still some formidable distance to be covered between Shergaon and Guwahati. Although 223 km in a day might seem trivial, there were around 100 km or so left to be done in the hills and considering the steepness of the last few km, bad roads from Balemu to Bhairabkund and the hot and humid weather of the plains, the small distance proved to be not so easy in the end.
Bhutan border and Lunch
At around 11.30 AM at Bhairabkund, we stopped for a picture at the Bhutan border. The border seemed friendly and many pickup trucks bearing Bhutanese number plates could be seen traversing the same. Our encounter with some Bhutanese people who had crossed over for some shopping in India was also friendly. After greeting them and admiring the beautiful check post gate at the border, we resumed the march towards Guwahati in extremely hot and humid weather.
Our return journey was via a different route from Udalguri onwards and this gave us a chance to enjoy an amazing lunch at Rowta at a roadside restaurant cum Dhaba named Rhino. The food was amazing and highly recommended if you are passing through that area.
Back to Guwahati and End of Day
With lunch out of the way, we made our way through some heavy traffic on Assam highways and entered Guwahati by 3 PM and went straight to submit our rented bike at the agency. As per the plan, we were supposed to switch to a Honda Activa for phase 2 of our trip.
The next task was to hunt for an accommodation for overnight stay. Scouting hotels on a cramped Activa with luggage was proving to be a great inconvenience as we were also very tired. Luckily, we found a place to park the vehicle and relax at an eatery. While sipping some cool drinks our booking at Riverview guest house was done. Quickly navigated the mad evening traffic of Guwahati and found the accommodation and what a relief it was. It was the perfect and rare find and we highly recommend it to anyone visiting Guwahati. We spent some time recovering from the heat of the day in the cool air-conditioned room of the guest house and then went out to have dinner.
The guest house is right on the banks of the Brahmaputra and close to the planetarium. There is a big ground nearby and Navratri/Durga Puja celebration was underway, which we checked out after dinner.
Though we could have spent some more time at the puja pandal grounds, it made sense to return to the guest house and plan for our next phase, which was a different adventure in itself.
